A Travellerspoint blog

Trying to get to Lake Maggiore

sunny 34 °C
View Midlife gap part 1 on aireland's travel map.

20 June. Left France behind (for a while) and caught train from Nice via Ventimiglia to Genoa where we are due to pick up a hire car and drive to Lake Maggiore. Sounds straightforward when you say it quickly.

Short hop to Ventimiglia is fine but then we have an hour to kill waiting at Ventimiglia Station. It's 32 degrees and there is no waiting room.

The last time I was in Ventimiglia was with my mate Patrick when we were 18 years old doing Interrail. All I remember from then is that we were a bit shocked seeing rats in the street as we walked through the town and also the state of the toilets at the Station. Basically the word "sh*thole" stayed in my mind for 38 years - it's strange how time stands still in some places!

I wander outside the station (Mo stayed inside) and see what I saw on the news a few days earlier. About 300 migrants and their families who have made that treacherous journey across the Med from North Africa and are now trying to cross from Italy into France (they are legally allowed to do this once Italy accepted them onto their territory) and lines of French police who are stopping them from crossing the border. It's a pretty sad spectacle - they look exhausted. I don't know the answer but doing nothing is not it!

We board our train to Genoa which eventually leaves about 30 minutes late (where's Mussolini when you need him) and after 4 or 5 stops I check the route online. It's then I realise why this 3 hour train journey is only costing us £9 each. The train will stop 27 times. The stations are mostly a tin roof shelter in the middle of field - it's possible to count on one hand the number of people who get on and off along the whole route. It would be more bearable if the scenery was interesting but apart from the swings inland to the "stations", it mostly consists of Italian beach resorts which just appear to reproductions of Andy Warhol type paintings (instead of Campbell's Soup tins, blue and white parasols).

Still, it's a means to an end - picking up the hire car in Genoa - what could possibly go wrong?

I gave the address of the rental office to the taxi driver who then called a major meeting with his buddies to decide if the road actually exists. He even gets on a conference call to double check - alarm bells start to ring. I have checked online that the address provided is indeed a Hertz rental office so despite some concerns, I am still not overly worried.

This relative calm was short lived as I was soon somewhat surprised that the taxi driver had decided to do some furniture shopping on the way to our destination. He pulled up outside a huge IKEA in the middle of a wasteland. I know everything in IKEA is flat packed but with us and our luggage I was not sure how he was going to fit his BILLY bookcases into the car. Perhaps one of the phone calls he had made whilst driving one handed at 80 mph through the Genoa streets was his wife telling him to pick up some meatballs for dinner.

In fact we had arrived at the address of the Hertz office which was no longer a small rental place with a nice line of dented Fiats but had been swallowed up by the Swedish giant. There followed lots of hand waving and driving around in circles looking for a totally absent Hertz sign. To say the air in the back of the taxi was blue would be an understatement.

To be fair to the taxi driver he then offered to take us to the nearby Genoa Airport where there is a Hertz office ( well unless SAAB had moved in on it) and he did not charge us any more than the original fair to IKEA.

By the time we got to the airport it was 34 degrees and we had been travelling for about 7 hours and we still had a 2-3 hour drive to get to Lake Maggiore. Given these circumstances I think I can be excused for my less than calm approach to the telephone call with Rentalcars.com in Manchester.

After the obligatory selection of multiple options on the keypad, three verses of Greensleeves and one apposite one of Queens "I want to break free" I explained what had happened to "Darren, your Customer Services Representative, how can I be of assistance to you today?"

"The Hertz office that your company provided as a pick up point is an IKEA"
"Can you repeat that please"

It took an hour to get to the point where I had to pay £500 for a new rental from the Hertz office at the airport with the promise that "we will carry out a full investigation to check what you say is true". If it is then I get the £500 back. I said that he was welcome to fly over to Genoa and check the facts himself (and as a bonus get some new cushions and lamps) but that I would be getting every penny of my £500 back.

What is a little ironic is that when I first booked this rental some 3 months earlier, I tried to get a car to be picked up from the airport but was told there were none available but they had plenty at their office in Stockholm (sorry, I mean downtown! Genoa)

The drive from Genoa to Stresa (lake Maggiore) is a bit of a blur as I was really tired but we got there safely. the apartment (not AirBnB) is perfect with a wonderful view over the lake and mountains and not an IKEA in sight

Posted by aireland 07:52 Archived in Italy Comments (0)

Cote D'Azure

sunny 33 °C
View Midlife gap part 1 on aireland's travel map.

6 June Left the relative luxury (and interesting use of swimming pool) of Sanary behind and caught a train via Toulon to Nice. Went to pick up hire car and then spent 30 minutes walking around a multi-storey car park looking for car after "straightforward" directions at car hire. When I found it there were a number of scratches despite the "no damage" on the form - given previous comments about attitudes to cars in Southern Europe it was a joke that the words "no damage" appeared at all. I went back to the office and got the changes made and I accused them of fraud or some sort of crime. - got a Gallic shrug in response.

Watch out for this when you rent a car abroad. There are numerous tales (look online) of people being ripped off having picked up a car which shows on paper no or minimal damage only to then get a bill 6 months after you get home (and can't even remember renting a car) for a total write off (I exaggerate to make the point).

On way to our home for the next two weeks (Carros - about a 20 minute drive northwest of Nice) we reacquainted ourselves with the incredible range of fresh produce in French Supermarkets. The one we went to had more fresh fish than I have seen at Most UK fish markets- incredible. Stocked up on essentials for self catering - beer, wine, steak, fish (me); toilet rolls, washing up liquid, rubber gloves and more toilet rolls (Mo)

Arrived at Respelido (www.respelido.com) in Carros and met by Sabrina the owner. This was not booked through AirBnB so we have great hopes and we are not disappointed. Everything matches the pictures and the description on the website. It's a beautiful place. 6 bungalows in landscaped gardens which her and her Hubble bought 13 years ago as a bare site and they now have a stunning place. There is also a pool and jacuzzi and strangely (given that it's 33 degrees plus on most days) a sauna. The burst of scents wherever you walk around the grounds from the jasmine, honeysuckle, mimosas (I think) and the herbs is magical. There is also a sort of mint that smells like sausages which is strangely addictive - know idea what it is.

We have two large bedrooms plus sofa bed, two bathrooms, kitchen, lounge and terrace with gardens and (my favourite) a built in bbq in the garden - which gets plenty of use.

Sabrina gave us lots of useful tips and also told us about a local market on Sunday (next day) in a hilltop village called St Jeannet and we resolved to get up early enough the next day to go there.

For the first few days we go out in the morning and then crash (me by the pool and Mo in the wardrobe) - it gets too hot to do anything else but I'm not complaining - it is so relaxing.

7 June - drive to St Jeannet. Apart from my infrequent references to Mos loathing of temperatures above 34 degrees Fahrenheit, I should also mention that she hates heights, particular those presented on the way up to what the Frence call "village perché" - you don't need to understand French to get what this means. Anyway the narrow lanes and innumerable hairpins on the way to St Jeannet were an opportunity for Mo to confirm that she has not overcome this particular character trait - she swore a lot.

St Jeannet itself was delightful - lots of tiny streets and great views down to the Med. The market is small but charming and is specifically for producers from a 5 km radius - we bought some of their fresh fruit and tapenade.

The drive back was just as eventful and just as full of swear words - quite offensive to my delicate ears. BBQ Dinner

8 June we drove to the coast to have a look around Villefranche sur Mer, Beaulieu Sur Mer and Cap St Jean Ferrat. The first two are over developed and not much to look at. St Jean is very pretty but manicured - it's one of the many millionaires playgrounds in this area. However the views from here along the coast towards Monte Carlo and Menton are worth the visit. BBQ dinner

9 June we got up very early to get to Menton before the peak temperature hit and Mo has to retreat to a wardrobe in full Burkha (feature of this stay is: starts at about 24 degrees at 8 am and then just steadily rises to 33 or more but then we get a bit of a thunderstorm at about 5 pm though there is no dip in Temperature)
We hadn't been here since New Year 2008 when we were in Nice for my 50th so it was good to have a wander around again. It's a very serene place - cobbled streets, great beaches and orange and lemon trees everywhere.

10 June up early again to get into Nice before wardrobe/Burkha cut off time. Wandered around the old town and over to the old port and had lunch on Cours Saleya in the middle of the wonderful market. It reminded us how much we really love Nice - we would come back again and again.

11 June - same routine then drove to Cannes as I wanted to check out potential boat trips for when our two visitors are with us. Not really a fan of Cannes - it's over developed and "plastic" and full of traffic. The one small redeeming feature is the tiny old town on the hill - it really is a world away from the flash cars and gin palaces and women with faces that are melting following extensive cosmetic surgery. BBQ dinner cooked during thunderstorm - quite a novel experience

12 June. Chris, meet Chris!

We pick up Chris Milton from the airport ( he is visiting us for 4 days) and after about 100 metres in the car the yeti (our Sat Nav for those who have forgotten) starts his conversation with the guy who clearly recorded all of the noises the yeti makes. At times it's difficult to know if it's the yeti giving me completely incomprehensible directions or if it's Chris clearing his throat but they clearly understand each other - it gets a bit spooky when they are sharing some private joke that we can't understand.

We go and buy the biggest steaks in the world for BBQ later and then drive up to Carros old town for a delightful lunch (great pizza) at Lou Poumpouille. Chris and I then laze by the pool for the rest of the afternoon until we get the forklift truck out to lift the steaks onto the BBQ. We have a great dinner - tapenade, olives, Wheat beer, wine and those steaks. It's great to catch up with Chris.

13 June we drive over to Cannes again. Chris visited lots of the Cote Dazure with his wife Rena many years ago so we thought it would be nice for him to revisit some of the places. We had a spot of lunch in the old town which at the time appeared ok but we suspect there was something not quite right with it as Chris and I (who ate the same dish) both had adverse reactions later on - both of us spending a lot of time sitting staring at bathroom doors (from the inside). The measure of how bad this was came when Mo told me to wear my trolleys to bed and Chris said the next morning that he had slept with a towel under him just in case. The towel belonged to Respelido so I don't know how I would have explained it if the worst had happened. In fact and with some relief we both had "clean" sleeps - " too much information !!!!"

In the evening the three of us go to the only restaurant within walking distance of where we are staying (Les Selves). It's a great "locals" restaurant and they serve up some tasty dishes and a couple of decent bottles of wine

14 June we take Chris into Nice and just wander aimlessly - it's the perfect place for this. We were going to go up onto Mont Boron from where the views along the whole Baie des Anges are fantastic. On arrival Chris had told us some tale about having a problem with his knee which meant walking up hill was a struggle (nothing to do with him being a fat bastard). Luckily the French have prepared for just such an excuse by installing a lift to take you to the top. Alas, it was out of order and when I suggest walking up, whatever he said to me ended in "off"

Back to chill by the pool.

Another good mate Richard Annis due to arrive that evening (staying for 4 days) but when I check his flight status it's showing long delay so I eventually pick him up at around 23:30. Great to see Richard (who I have also missed) but he is understandably very tired after such a long journey from North Norfolk

15 June we get to Cannes early to get the boat over the Ile St Marguerite. It's a glorious sunny day - "too feckin hot - Mo".

It's only about a 15 minute boat ride but it could not be more different than Cannes. There are no hotels just a couple of restaurants, an old Napoleonic fort and forests. We wander for about an hour around the coast and through the forest and find the most perfectly situated restaurant (La Guerite). The restaurant is right by the water and the views are stunning. We have loads of good food including a giant Seabass between us and a few bottles of a cheeky rose. The restaurant also provides entertainment for the male clientele in the form a very shapely bird parading around in a bikini in a bid to get the goggled-eyed men to part with lots of Euros to buy one for the wife (I didn't). I agreed with Mo that it was all very tacky and demeaning (yeah right).

After lunch we walk the rest of the coastal path (about two hours). The sea is a bit wilder on the south side of the island which makes for more interesting scenery. Near the end of the walk I decide I want to swim in the lovely clear Med and Chris decides to do the same. I have come prepared with my budgie smugglers, Chris strips down to his undercrackers and goes in. Richard and Mo stay on dry land. I thought Richards remark about sighting of a great white off the island was a bit harsh - then I realised he was talking about Chris as I have lost some weight, grown some whiskers and resemble a walrus rather than a great white.

There then followed a scene which should have been accompanied by Benny Hill music as Chris attempted to get out of his soaking wet trolleys on a beach where his feet were burning, behind a T shirt acting as a towel held by Richard whilst a party of young school kids on a field trip to the island were spending more time than was necessary wondering what species had emerged from the water wearing what appeared to be a wet handerkerchief. It was a moment to remember. We managed to get the return ferry without being branded perverts. I think they just thought "English"

16 June we drove to Menton. Richard had never been and Chris was here with us in 2008 and liked it. We had a lovely lunch by the beach and then Richard and I hiked up the steep streets to the cemetary on the hill where William Webb Ellis is buried. Paid our respects to the man who invented the game we both love. Chris and mo stayed down in the town - they both did the pilgrimage in 2008 and Chris was apparently having problems with that knee of his.

Drove Chris to the airport for his return flight. It was great that he could visit, we loved seeing him (as always he provided entertaining moments) and it all past far too quickly.

17 June drove to Antibes. This is probably our favourite place on the Cote Dazure. It's got a lovely old town, great beaches but it's also a working town not just a holiday resort so it feels like it has some substance. We then drive up to one the "perched villages" - Gourdon. For Mo the drive is apparently worse than the one to St Jeannet - there was less swearing but as I glanced at her whilst negotiating one of the many hairpins she had turned a funny colour and appeared unable to speak at all.

The journey was worth it. It's a bit touristy there but there are excellent views from the village over Baie des Anges - though there are a lot of sheer drops. We had a lovely lunch at which Mo unusually quaffed a fair bit of wine. This was in fact Dutch courage so that she could actually enjoy the views when we walked around afterwards.

18 June Richard returns to the UK. We drop him off at the airport. Again we have loved seeing him, he's great, relaxing company and it all past too quickly.

Mo and I return to chill at the bungalow/pool. We have both really enjoyed seeing our friends and are grateful that they took the time to visit us on this trip of ours.

19 June. This is the day before we leave so according to Mo its packing day. I start packing at 9 am and finish at 9:05 and spend the rest of the day by the pool. Mo appears about 4 hours later sweating and swearing about the amount of stuff she had to pack - as if the mysterious suitcase fairy has appeared whilst she wasn't looking and added 30 kilos of extra luggage.

We go back to the pizza restaurant in Carros old town for dinner - it's full of locals and there is a great atmosphere. Mo befriends one of the local mutts (she has to have a canine fix every day since we lost our old dog, Ben). This particular one is really taken with her and follows us around the town and back to the car afterwards. She then frets about where it lives, will it fall off a cliff, who feeds it to the point where I am concerned she is going to steal it. I bundle her into the car and reassure her that she is the latest in a long list of visitors to be taken in by this very clever dog.

20 June. Leave Carros, return the car to Nice Station and get the train (long, long journey) to Genoa via a sh*thole called Ventimiglia - I will pick up the story in my next blog

Reflections on the fortnight on the Riviera. We have visited most of the regions of France over the years and love them all for different reasons but time and again the Cote Dazure always appears at the top of the list. Yes it can be busy and the traffic can be annoying at times but it still has charming towns and villages, great food and perfect weather for most of the year not to forget a quality of light which you seldom find anywhere else. We have thoroughly enjoyed it - the times when there were just the two of us and when Chris and Richard came. NOUS REVIENDRONS


Posted by aireland 08:26 Archived in France Comments (0)

Sanary sur Mer

Spoiling ourselves a bit (oh and a bit of ooh la la)

sunny 29 °C
View Midlife gap part 1 on aireland's travel map.

4 June left Montpellier and took train (via Marseille) to one of our favourite places on the Med - Sanary. We decided to spoil ourselves a bit so booked into a (bloody expensive) hotel with exec room and a pool.

We were last here in 2007 when we were in France for the Rugby World Cup and we loved it. It is a holiday resort but also a working town with a fantastic, daily open air market which operates all year and I could walk it around for hours. Fresh fish, beautifully presented fruit and veg brought in by local farmers to sell and all the wonderful smells of cheese and cured meats.

This is not a tourist market nor a British Farmers Market (over-priced, aimed at the middle classes). The nearest I have seen to this in the UK are Ludlow, Bath and Bolton - markets that are part of everyday life not "special occasions" where you are expected to part company with £10 for some home made chutney or local onions grown by an ex city banker who bought half of Shropshire using his latest city bonus.

The harbour is picturesque but by no means twee. None of the gin palaces which characterise the more ostentatious resorts up and down the Cote D'azure. There are beautifully crafted old sailing boats (some over 100 years old) and it all provides a very serene atmosphere.

We had two lovely, intimate dinners out in Sanary and a stroll around the harbour on both evenings - it's a very romantic place. I could live here.

As I said, this was an opportunity to spoil ourselves and for me particularly an opportunity to chill out by and in a swimming pool. On the second afternoon I went down to the pool in my budgie smugglers and apart from an elderly couple and a woman of about 45 it was empty. Mo followed me down in Burkha with Factor 300 sun cream and lay next to me (me in the sun, Mo in the shad)..

After about 30 mins she said to me "I think that woman (the 45 year old) is doing yoga in the pool". I glanced over and it did indeed appear that she was doing some sort of exercise. She was on the far side of the pool with her back to us and her legs were as far apart as they could possibly get. What was a bit strange though was that she was raising herself out of the water and pushing her herself against something on the wall of the pool. After a while she had a swim and returned to her sun bed (I swear she had a bit of a self satisfied grin on her face, but didn't give it another thought).

When I went for a swim about 30 mins later she was in there again doing her "yoga". A few surreptitious glances confirmed that she was not doing any form of yoga that I know of ( then again I can hardly claim to be an expert in this form of exercise). Let's just say she was making full use of the facilities (the very strong jet in the pool) to get the most out of her afternoon. This was confirmed when after the last of a number of "yoga" sessions she asked me for a cigarette and a cuddle. VIVE LA FRANCE!!


Posted by aireland 05:57 Archived in France Tagged sanary Comments (0)

Back into France

sunny 28 °C
View Midlife gap part 1 on aireland's travel map.

1 June - early start to drive to Barcelona Airport to return our "fiat 500 with the extra-arse" as Mo has christened it.
Despite my misgivings it's actually been a good car. We have covered about 2500 miles and not a single problem (mechanically). No car could deal successfully with the parking challenges that we have faced.

Took a very comfortable 2.5 hour train journey from Barcelona to Montpellier. I booked this a couple of months ago and got two 1st class seats for about £40 ( note to UK authorities - A rail service works best when it is under state control).

We have booked an apartment for three nights near the city centre with AirBnB. It does what it says on the tin so no complaints this time. Location (Beaux-Arts) is very central - easy walking to Place de la Comedie and the Ecusson (historic walled centre).

We spend the next three days wandering around this very laid back city. Despite the fact that it's got a large student population and an average age of 25 we (50+ year olds) don't feel out of place. Place de La Comedie is buzzing but a few steps away you can find secret little squares (places St- Roch, St- Ravy and de la Canourgue) and tiny streets which are all but deserted. We covered quite a few miles without realising it but also note the tram service is excellent - we used to get out to some of outer suburbs.

Also worth a visit are the botanical gardens which were originally set up by the Medical School some 450 years ago to grow herbal remedies. A bit scruffy in parts but beautifully laid out and a pleasant assault on the senses as you wander through the different sections. The locals come out for lunch bang on 12 (it is France) and use the gardens to rest for 2 hours (as I said, it is France)

The heat is also building - getting around 28 degrees every day now - but Mo doesn't look out of place in her Burkha amongst the international students. With the heat come the mozzies so Mo is not only covered head to toe in black but also sprayed all over with DDT - she can't understand why everyone is giving her a wide berth.

Find a lovely open air restaurant (La Guinguette) in Place des Beaux-Arts - so good we ate there twice. Also found a bar stocking international beers so that I could get my German Wheat beer fix though I would balk at having a few at their prices (8 euros a bottle). Clearly vey well off students here.

All in all this was a pleasant re- introduction to France ( which despite visiting lots of countries remains our favourite)


Posted by aireland 03:32 Archived in France Tagged montpellier Comments (0)


Dali country

sunny 26 °C
View Midlife gap part 1 on aireland's travel map.

22/5/15. Long drive from Logrono to Cadaques ahead of us. Estimate it will take 7 hours overall (I was right). Since I put the plan together we have changed things a bit. We were going to stop over in Zaragossa for a couple of nights but we both agreed we want to get to the coast (need my water and sunshine fix) as soon as possible. We chose Cadaques because, although it's officially on the Costa Brava it is apparently nothing like the "Watneys Red Barrel-drinking party from Rhyl singing Torremelinos and complaining that they don't make tea like at home etc etc (courtesy Monty Python).

Essentially we were looking for peace and quiet by the sea and (for me) sunshine. This meant that if I was happy, Mo would have to bring out the Burkha again.

As you would expect on such a long drive there were a number of scenery changes. As we moved southeast from central Rioja into Rioja Baja it got noticeably hotter and drier. Then we moved into the Zaragossa area of Aragon which was far more lush and fertile with crops and orchards for miles. The Pyrenees also make an appearance through here. Finally into Catalunya where the Pyrenees are a stronger presence but also very dramatic scenery through the Montseney Massif north of Barcelona.

This all made a laborious drive very interesting.

The approach to Cadaques is also interesting if, like Mo, you are not keen on narrow mountain roads with lots of hairpins and lunatic Spanish drivers who seem to regard overtaking on said hairpins as de rigueur. Her comment was that once we arrive the car would not be used for the whole stay. She was right, it wasn't.

As you drive down this approach road Cadaques suddenly emerges and it is a very picturesque sight - reminiscent of a Greek Island - blue sea, blue sky and lots of white buildings around the harbour. The backdrop is lots of hills and no visibility whatsoever of the rest of the Costa Brava

We arrived at about 4pm found the property up this narrow street, but Barbara (our host) was not there. We drove around and then rang her. We then drove back to the property and she was there. The apartment was as described "quirky, owned by a female artist". Translated this was "like something from a sixties hippy commune owned by a barking mad German woman".

Barbara showed us round and it all seemed ok-ish. The best bit was the large roof terrace which was a sun trap and had great views of the harbour and town. She then told us to make sure we bring in the mattresses from the terrace as "ze zee gulls vill shit on zem"

She told us the sink was blocked. she was right and it stayed blocked for the whole stay. We both got very good at using the plunger. The wifi worked - thankfully.

We found a Lebanese restaurant in the evening that was recommended in the rough guide and ate there. The food was great and it was in a lovely courtyard setting. Apparently Salvador Dali and his wife used to eat there regularly. There were pictures so it wasn't a ruse.

Over the next 9 days we really did very little. The weather was fantastic so I spent a couple of hours each day on the roof while Mo hid in a cupboard and did a rain dance. We mixed eating out with catering for ourselves - fresh fish available in the town.

We took a really nice walk from Cadaques over to Port Lligat but rather than take the direct route we wandered around little lanes coming across beautiful, deserted little bays. Salvador Dalis home is in Port Lligat but you have to book in advance to go in so we resolved to return a few days later (which we did).

The trip to Dalis home was a real highlight. I have always liked his work so it was a pleasure to wander around his extraordinary home which he shared with his wife Gala. The house is in the perfect position overlooking the bay in Port Lligat. It is painted completely white and surrounded by his own Olive Grove together with some "unusual" artefacts - the usual Eggs were present and the two heads are better than one sculpture but also a phalic shaped swimming pool with a bar at the bell end; sofas shaped like lips (did the Rolling Stones copy him or vice-versa?) and a massive prone statue of Jesus made out of rubbish.

The house is pretty much how he left it when Gala died in 1982 (including two original paintings) when he moved to Figueras (the Dali Museam there is also well worth a visit). We both really enjoyed the visit and would strongly recommend it (you can book online and usually get in the next day).

Cadaques is all we hoped it would be. There is a real French influence here (it's close to the border so lots of them cross for weekends and holidays). Fantastic restaurants which open when you want to eat; beautiful mostly white buildings, a peaceful bay. It was exactly what we wanted.

Barbara was indeed as mad as a box of frogs. We are not quite sure where she actually lived. There was another apartment next to ours which we know she spent a couple of nights in (with her two dogs) but she also muttered something about spending time in the mountains so we didn't see her for long periods though she kept in touch with me by sending odd (as in bloody mad) text messages. She also dressed like a Sherpa about to climb Everest even though it was mostly 26 degrees plus whilst we were there. She was really sweet - I liked her.

When we arrived Mo told Barbara she really wanted to meet her dogs (later regretted). She arrived with them a couple of days later and when we opened the apartment door they just burst in, Barbara followed and starting accusing me of breaking the TV (I hadn't and she later relented). One of the dogs was very friendly but filthy and scratching a lot and then rolling around on the rug in our lounge. The other very timid. I asked Barabra if this quiet little dog was friendly. Yes she said, just stroke her head and rub her back. I tried this and she turned into the spawn of the devil who threatened to remove a a couple of my fingers.

The next day Mo was scratching a lot - I think the dogs left some little visitors on that rug - careful what you ask for. It was quite difficult for Mo to actually scratch where it itched whilst wearing a full Burkha but I think she worked it out.

So this entry is a bit light on content but we enjoyed our stay - next stop France.






Posted by aireland 10:10 Archived in Spain Comments (0)

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